Metro State 3D Fab

ART 39AS Building 3D Fabricators

Converting .skp files to .stl

Google Sketchup does not have the option to export files to .stl, but there is a few Plugins available that are capable of converting .skp files you have either created i or downloaded from 3dWarehouse to Replicator G friendly .stl files.

Guitar-list Plugin

This is the best plugin i have found to convert .skp files to .stl

link to plugin download:

http://www.guitar-list.com/download-software/convert-sketchup-skp-files-dxf-or-stl

download .rb plugin file.

drag file into the sketchup plugin file:

library>application support>google sketchup8>plugins

if there isn’t a plugin folder create one and put it in there.

open model in Sketchup. Under the Tools menu, there should be a selection: Export DXF or STL

select all model> convert to either cm or inches in drop menu> select export to stl in drop menu> choose folder to save file to.

CADspan Plugin

This plugin does alright, but it takes a long time to process the file to STL

download and install program program from their website http://www.cadspan.com/tools . You will need to create a account with your email and password to login and use the plugin.

open your file in sketchup

Tools> CADspan tools> Resurface

it will ask for your username and password. Under the CADspan Tab click Upload. after geometry is loaded, click Process. this should take a while, but when it is finished you can click STL download. This will take you to a website where you can download the converted .stl file.

Su2stl

http://rhin.crai.archi.fr/rld/plugin_details.php?id=429

i haven’t tried this plugin yet, but it seems popular online.

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Makerbot Settings/

Hello friends!  Stanley Tucci Here,

Here is the settings I have been using to print on the MK5 lately.  Refer to the handout that Brian handed out at the beginning of the semester for most settings. These are just the settings I have changed.

to change your settings, start by clicking

Generate Code, select pistachio-mk5-heated-platform-abs profile, then edit.

Extrusion over Thickness:

-This setting has seemed to be constantly changing, started at 2.04, and now all the way down to 1.6. I’ve had it set to 1.6 for the past month and have been having great prints, but yesterday (4-15) we were printing at 1.3.. So keep experimenting with this number.

    Set to 1.6 in all these Skienforge settings:

Raft > Base layer thickness over layer thickness > 1.6

Speed > Extrusion diameter over thickness > 1.6

Carve > Extrusion width over thickness > 1.6

Inset > Extrusion perimeter width over thickness > 1.6

Fill Settings


 

Layers:

Set to 0 – does one layer, better for resolution

Set to 1– does two layers, better for strength and solidity

It would be a good idea to boost the number up for extra strength. Or, you may want to liquor up the print to 4 0r 5 layers to print a whiskey tight shot glass.

Chang this setting under:

Diaphragm Thickness (layers):  0

Extra Shells on Alternating Solid Layer (layers):  0

Extra Shells on Base (layers):  0

Extra shells on sparse layer (layers):  0

Infill solidity (ratio):

-Set to 0.25, plenty solid, saves some material and print time,

-Set to 0.5, highest I would go, makes a solid and strong object, good for making a RepRap part. Etc.

-setting to the infill ratio to either the  .5  or .05 variable seems to make an even grid or waffle-like form on the inside of object, which seems to make a more proficient print.  If it still isn’t filling correctly you may need to change the shape of the Infill Pattern depending on the shape of the object.

Hexagonal – Rectangular – Line

Comb


Activate comb for more resolution, especially for parts with holes or open spaces. The Makerbot will only print where there is material, best as possible, sometimes…

Temperature

You may need to adjust the temperature higher or lower depending on if you are printing with PLA or ABS.

PLA:  ~220

ABS:   210-215

I have found that 215 works great on most models, 210 if there is overhangs on the object.


Changing Temperature:

The Raft settings for temperature in Skienforge do absolutely nothing in correlation to the print. But, there is a way to lower the temperature of the extruder in the Gcode, which makes for higher resolution and more successful prints.

After you generate the code,  do this:

In the ReplicatorG window, you can view either the model or the Gcode by selecting a tab on the top left of the viewing window.

The 1st line of code will read:

M104 S220 TO (Extruder Temperature to 220 Celsius)

Simply erase the 220 and replace it with the desired temperature.

The new line of code will read:

M104 S215 TO (Extruder Temperature to 215 Celsius)

Now the Makerbot will print a more accurate and controlled temperature.

 

Viewing temperature during print:

It is extremely helpful, if not necessary to be monitoring the temperature of the extruder during prints.

To do this:

Drop down the Replicator G tab located next to apple on the top left corner of the screen

Select Preferences

Check the 1st box labeled: Monitor Temperature during builds

Now, on the right of the yellow bar above the model window you can view the live temperature of the extruder during print.

Hopefully this helps. One thing we know about the Makerbot is it is pretty bipolar, and the settings are constantly changing. I was printing yesterday at 1.3 on the extrusion over thickness, so there is definitely more tuning that needs done.  Keep it Real.

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ART39AS Building 3D Fabricators

This course introduces DIY digital fabrication through three-dimensional modeling and rapid prototyping technologies for the incorporation into works of art and design. Through the construction of a commercially available open source 3D fabricator, this course addresses issues surrounding open source manufacturing and topics including data acquisition, modeling, visualization, modularity, and material practices.

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